Friday, August 22, 2008

1893 Sleeves

After doing the sleeve pattern for the Gibson Girl Bodice I thought it would be nice to share with you some pictures of what the real sleeve looked like back in 1893. This is from the Delineator (Butterick) March 1893.

Item # 1

This shows the upper and lower views of the sleeve. This is a beautiful sleeve. The underside shows the 'gusset' or 2nd piece. This particular sleeve was labeled as one for outside garments to be worn over dresses with large sleeves. The article goes on to say:

No. 6076.—
This sleeve is intended for coats and jack­ets that are to be worn over dresses having the voluminous sleeves forming so prominent a feature of pres­ent modes. It is here pictured developed in silk velvet, and is unusually wide above the elbow and comfortably close-fitting below. It is shaped with a wide upper part and an unusually narrow under part. The fulness at the top is collected in gathers to rise with the fashionable arched effect above and spread in bal­loon fashion. The wrist is plainly com­pleted. When a lining is necessary it will be cut exactly like the outside.

The next sleeve is the Shirt Sleeve


LADIES' SHIRT SLEEYE. (For Illustrations see this Page.)
No. 6045.—This comfortable sleeve is pictured made of shirting. It is of comfortable width and shaped by one seam, which is at the inside of the arm. The sleeve is gathered at the top and bottom and may be finished with a cuff that rolls deeply and flares at the back of the arm, or with a straight cuff that closes at the back of the arm with two button-holes and buttons. When the sleeve is finished with the straight cuff it is deeply slashed at the back of the arm, one edge of the slash being very narrowly hemmed and the other edge finished with an overlap , that is pointed at the top.
A sleeve of this kind is specially adapted to blouses, blouse-waists, shirtwaists and full waists of all varieties. Wash silk, China silk,Surah, Oxford cloth, Madras cloth, percale, linen lawn and, in fact, all sorts of dress goods are adaptable to the mode, and a neat decoration of feather or machine stitching may be chosen for the cuffs.


No. 6008.—This sleeve is in picturesque Empire style, and is represented made of seasonable woollen goods. It has a smooth coat-shaped lining, extending to the wrist and shaped by the usual seams along the inside and outside of the arm. The sleeve extends to the elbow and is gathered at the top, at the lower edge and again a little above to form a double puff, the upper puff being deep and the lower one short. The puffs are secured by tackings to the lining, and the exposed portions of lining are covered with facings of the material. The sleeve may be made up with the two puffs or with the upper puff and a deep frill, or as an elbow sleeve with two puffs, or as a short puff sleeve as shown in the illustration, the pattern providing for the various styles. The sleeve will develop with satisfactory results in a combination of fabrics or in a single material of either silken or woollen texture. Bengaline, velvet, faille or changeable silk will unite beautifully with poplin, camel's-hair, serge, vigogne, vicuna and novelty woollens in a sleeve of this kind, and a combination of plain and plaid woollens will be pretty and becoming.
We have pattern No. 6008 in seven sizes for ladies from nine to fifteen inches, arm measure, measuring the arm about an inch below the bottom of the arm's-eye. To make a pair of sleeves for a lady whose arm measures eleven inches as described, calls for two yards and five-eighths of material twenty-two inches wide, or a yard and seven-eighths thirty inches wide, or a yard and three-eighths forty-four or fifty inches wide. Price of pattern, 5d. or 10 cents.

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