1893 Bodice

LiveJournal Tags: Fahion,1893,bodice

This is the original write-up on the Ladies Waist. They were very descriptive on their patterns. This gave the reader a full knowledge of the season's new look and for us a real insight into the past. You can click on the picture and up will pop-up the larger view. You may also right click save to your hard drive.

LADIES' WAIST, WITH FULL OUTER BODY OUTLINING A ROUND YOKE.

(For Illustrations see Page 241.)

No. 6054—Other illustrations of this pretty waist may be seen at figures Nos. 358 B and 362 B in this delineator.

The waist is here shown daintily devel­oped in lawn and all-over embroidery. It has a full back and fronts, which are cut away in low, round outline at the top and arranged upon a high-necked lining adjusted by double bust darts under-arm and side-back gores and a curving center seam. The back and fronts are gathered at their upper edges at the center of the back and at each side of the closing, which is made invisibly at the center of the front; and the fulness at the lower edge is drawn toward the center and regulated by two rows of shirring made at belt depth apart. Under - arm gores produce a smooth effect at the sides, and a belt cut from the all - over embroidery finishes the lower edge. The plain fronts and plain backs are exposed in round-yoke outline by the low-necked portions and covered with yoke facings of all-over embroidery, from under which the material may be cut away, with dainty effect. A frill of em-broidered edging droops prettily from the upper edges of the full portions, em­phasizing the yoke effect. The full puff sleeves rise in picturesque fashion above the shoulders; they are mounted upon smooth coat-shaped linings and are finished at the wrists with round cuffs, from the edges of which frills of embroidered edging droop prettily over the hands. The becomingly high standing collar is cut from all-over embroidery and is decorated at the upper edge with a frill of edging. The mode will develop attractively in lawn, ba­tiste, cambric, gingham, cotton crepon, seersucker and all varieties of wool­lens. Washable laces, Hamburg embroidery or fancy tucking will unite prettily with cotton goods. We have pattern No. 6054 in thirteen sizes for ladies from twenty-eight to forty-six inches, bust measure. In the combina­tion pictured for a lady of medium size, the waist requires two yards and three-fourths of lawn thir­ty-six inches wide, with seven-eighths of a yard of all - over embroidery twenty-seven inches wide. Of one material, it calls for three yards and seven-eighths twenty-two inches wide, or two yards and three-fourths thirty-six inches wide, or two yards and an-eighth forty-four inches wide. Price of pat­tern, 1s. or 25 cents.

Flash

Avon catalog had a lovely offer for a triple pack of those net body scrubs and Diana bought a set. What i thought was really neat about this was that the net clip cover for the scrubbies was just the right scale for doing doll hair nets (like the ones they use to put over your curlers before you go under the drier).or snoods. can easily gather the one end to a tight knot then thread ribbon through the other end and you have a quick and easy air net to protect your doll's hair while working up a pattern (for those try-ons to check to see if this is going to fit).

A Crocheted Victorian Bodice and Sleeve

So ecstatic about how well my current project is turning out I just had to show it off even though the pattern for the bodice is not ready. But here is the Sleeve! this photo shows the sleeve with the finished edging and button loops on the sleeve opening. I will be using size 2.5 mm pearl beads for the buttons and work on the bodice pattern.

This project has been i the making for several years; I seem to get interrupted and have to put it aside. But now I am going to finish it. Don't know what to do about the skirt yet. Have a couple of ideas and maybe will do them both.

1893 Sleeves

After doing the sleeve pattern for the Gibson Girl Bodice I thought it would be nice to share with you some pictures of what the real sleeve looked like back in 1893. This is from the Delineator (Butterick) March 1893.

Item # 1

This shows the upper and lower views of the sleeve. This is a beautiful sleeve. The underside shows the 'gusset' or 2nd piece. This particular sleeve was labeled as one for outside garments to be worn over dresses with large sleeves. The article goes on to say:

No. 6076.—
This sleeve is intended for coats and jack­ets that are to be worn over dresses having the voluminous sleeves forming so prominent a feature of pres­ent modes. It is here pictured developed in silk velvet, and is unusually wide above the elbow and comfortably close-fitting below. It is shaped with a wide upper part and an unusually narrow under part. The fulness at the top is collected in gathers to rise with the fashionable arched effect above and spread in bal­loon fashion. The wrist is plainly com­pleted. When a lining is necessary it will be cut exactly like the outside.

The next sleeve is the Shirt Sleeve

LADIES' SHIRT SLEEYE. (For Illustrations see this Page.)
No. 6045.—This comfortable sleeve is pictured made of shirting. It is of comfortable width and shaped by one seam, which is at the inside of the arm. The sleeve is gathered at the top and bottom and may be finished with a cuff that rolls deeply and flares at the back of the arm, or with a straight cuff that closes at the back of the arm with two button-holes and buttons. When the sleeve is finished with the straight cuff it is deeply slashed at the back of the arm, one edge of the slash being very narrowly hemmed and the other edge finished with an overlap , that is pointed at the top.
A sleeve of this kind is specially adapted to blouses, blouse-waists, shirtwaists and full waists of all varieties. Wash silk, China silk,Surah, Oxford cloth, Madras cloth, percale, linen lawn and, in fact, all sorts of dress goods are adaptable to the mode, and a neat decoration of feather or machine stitching may be chosen for the cuffs.

LADIES' DRESS SLEEVE.

No. 6008.—This sleeve is in picturesque Empire style, and is represented made of seasonable woollen goods. It has a smooth coat-shaped lining, extending to the wrist and shaped by the usual seams along the inside and outside of the arm. The sleeve extends to the elbow and is gathered at the top, at the lower edge and again a little above to form a double puff, the upper puff being deep and the lower one short. The puffs are secured by tackings to the lining, and the exposed portions of lining are covered with facings of the material. The sleeve may be made up with the two puffs or with the upper puff and a deep frill, or as an elbow sleeve with two puffs, or as a short puff sleeve as shown in the illustration, the pattern providing for the various styles. The sleeve will develop with satisfactory results in a combination of fabrics or in a single material of either silken or woollen texture. Bengaline, velvet, faille or changeable silk will unite beautifully with poplin, camel's-hair, serge, vigogne, vicuna and novelty woollens in a sleeve of this kind, and a combination of plain and plaid woollens will be pretty and becoming.
We have pattern No. 6008 in seven sizes for ladies from nine to fifteen inches, arm measure, measuring the arm about an inch below the bottom of the arm's-eye. To make a pair of sleeves for a lady whose arm measures eleven inches as described, calls for two yards and five-eighths of material twenty-two inches wide, or a yard and seven-eighths thirty inches wide, or a yard and three-eighths forty-four or fifty inches wide. Price of pattern, 5d. or 10 cents.

LiveJournal Tags: fashion,1893

Poll

I've added a little poll for you to answer. I tried to make it allow for more than one answer but, for some reason, the gadget would not accept that. I will try again in a day or so. The gadget is also supposed to re-size so that there is no need of the scroll bars, but when I put it up it did not what it was supposed to, however it does take votes. So let me know. Also if you want to subscribe to this blog, you may do so at the bottom of the page.
I know I will not be able to post everyday, but hope to do so often enough with some interesting tidbit.
I would love to hear form those who visit here.

Knotted-end Scarf

Remember those cute long and narrow decorative tube scarves with the knots on the end? Well this is made, for fun, out of sewing thread and a #13 hook. I had some vintage sewing thread by Belding Corticelli and decided that it would make a lovely little decorative scarf. It is 6 5/8 inches long and I really should have made it longer. It is nice and soft, knots and drapes nicely. You can also use 1 strand Rayon machine embroidery thread and #13-14 steel hook. The color range is wonderful and you can match any outfit.

Sewing thread, 1 strand and #13 steel hook-

Ch 5, dc, ch 1 in 5th ch from hook 8 times, sl st to 4th free ch from bottom; do not turn but work in rnds.
Next: ch 3, sc in each ch-1 sp and just keep making ch loops for 6 5/8-inches
Finish: Ch 3, dc in next ch-3 sp around fasten off and thread a needle with the tail; run sts through the tops of the dc sts to pull them together and fasten off.
Tie knots in each end.

The L-st

Was playing around with the very interesting v-st one day and came up with a couple of variations that i put into use for a couple of designs. I've used it before for hanging other stitches on in edgings but to use the v-st as it is with row after row seemed to dull and unappealing. So i tried it first, a different way, and that seemed to work out nicely and ideas started popping into my mind. I added sleeves and peplum and came up with a 'Romantic' Blouse. The photo here shows the start of the romantic blouse and is the 'summer top' The stitch used is the lazy v-st (l-st) and is worked as follows:
Row 1: on a row of chain sts, or any other stitch you want, (sc, ch 1, dc) in first st, * sk 2 sts, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next st, rep from * across to last 2 sts, sc in rem 2 sts, ch 1, turn
Row 2: (sc, ch 1, dc) in first sc, (sc, ch 1, dc)in ch-1 sp of each l-st across to last l-st, sc in ch-1 sp of last l-st and sc in the sc of same st, ch 1 turn.
works with multiples of 3 +1.
This makes a nice pattern stripe so could be worked long ways (up and down) for something. You may want to use a crochet hook size 2 or more sizes larger than you would normally for the size thread or yarn you want ot use.

What ever happened to....

Hungarian Goulash and other classic recipes. I cannot seem to find the real recipe. Due to a series of unfortunate events, I have lost some of the classic old cookbooks and searching on the internet for an old recipe seems to be too time consuming. I was just looking for Hungarian goulash the other night and could not find it. What I did find find were variations to the original recipe. It seems that others have not a clue as to what this dish is. It is a Hungarian stew flavored mostly with paprika. Not potatoes or tomato paste or other tomato products. And no marjoram. I know I have played around with our traditional family recipe of Hungarian goulash, but these new recipes are just not the same and some are not even close. Maybe mine is just a variation, also. But this is what i grew up with and like it best.

My mother used to take round steak, cut into 1x2 1/2-inch strips or cubes and coat (dredge; another long lost 'item') with a mixture of flour and paprika (good sweet Hungarian paprika). A little salt and pepper to taste which i changed to Vegesal or other of similar salt-free seasonings and brown in a little bacon fat (not butter). When this step is finished, add a little beef broth and cover; simmer for 45 minutes. I would take and cut up some onion (brown or yellow depending on how you are looking at them at the moment) and brown them; slice some mushrooms and simmer them all together. What I couldn't remember is whether the sour cream was part of that dish or something else. And since my family is not Hungarian, i cannot attest to the authenticity of this recipe but served over buttered noodles (and it has to be noodles, although i have served this over mashed potatoes) it is delicious!