More on the braid

If you tried out the sc braid from the previous post you will be ready for these variations. These are all worked with just one stitch – single crochet stitch and worked ‘single file’ so-to-speak or one on top of the other. But when you put your hook into different parts of the stitch (bet you didn’t know there were so many), you can find differing patterns.

The nice little braid done in the previous post used two strands of thread. This particular one and the following variations, use only one strand

as marked in the above photo. This little braid makes it real easy for working off the one side to which you can make a little ruffle. This would work really cute for the little Kelly dolls.

The next two braids require turning each row; both examples are shown here with a line to show the difference.

for the first one…

you turn the row with the right edge going to the left and put you hook where the line indicates and in that direction.

Don’t forget you can click on the photos to get the larger view. I know my line is not very thick, but i could not get a clearer shot and figured this would make it easier to understand.

The other braid is the same but you turn the left side to the right, and use the same little loop. Always chain 1 to turn.

Just Plain Stitches

Today is the day for stitches; don’t have any reason except that when you crochet you eventually want to add to your repertoire of stitches something new and different. especially if you do any of your own doll crochet work.

The first one is named forget-me-knot.

works on Multiples of 3

Row 1: ch 2 (which counts as first dc), [dc, ch 2, sc] in 3rd ch from hk, * sk 2 sts, [2 dc ch 2, sc] in next ch, rep from * across, ch 2 (counts as first dc of next row), turn.

Row 2: ch 2, [dc, ch 2, sc] in first ch--2 sp,* sk 2 sts, [2 dc, ch 2, sc] in next ch-2 sp, rep from * across, ch 2 (counts as first dc of next row), turn

Sample was worked in Omega #20 cotton and #8 hook on 21ch and measures 2 1/16" x 7/8 inch (5 rows)

The next one is called the begonia stitch

work on Multiples of 3+2

This is really a v-st in hdc but in Mon Tricot of 1972 it was called the begonia stitch

Row 1: [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in 3rd ch from hook, skip 2 ch, [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in next ch, rep from* across ending with sk 1, hdc in last st, ch 2 turn.

Row 2: [hdc, ch 1, hdc] in ch-1 sp of each v-st across, hdc in top of turning ch or first hdc, ch 2 turn.

Sample was worked on 23 sts in #20 cotton and #8 steel hook and measures 7/8 " w. x 1 inch (7 rows)

And what about a little braid for decorating with….

this is worked somewhat like a rice stitch making a long chain (each row is 1 sc wide).

ch 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, then insert hook through the two strands as indicated in photo….

yo, and pull loop through and complete your sc stitch, rep for length needed.

Melissa Floral Appliquéd Sheer Ribbon

Found this at Paper Mart where I bought the synthetic raffia, There are others too like -
Melissa Floral Appliqued Sheer Ribbon

The link for their newsletter is here so you can see what is new.

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Thread – Rayon, Anyone?

I have found some rayon thread that i am going to try out and thought i should also share the link for those who haven’t found this.

Razzle Rayon similar they say to #8 crochet cotton, but they mean pearl cotton and comes 250 yds on a spool. Anyway I am having a tough time deciding what colors to get. It shouldn’t make to much of a difference if using it for a blouse (similar to Paradise P-079)…

but for using it for a complete dress the gauge is going to be different.

The first one is white, of course but then there is Baby Pink, Peony Pink,Light Country Blue. there such other lovely colors.

The next one is YLI Pearl Crown Rayon. The write-up is as follows:

”Pearl Crown Rayon is one of the most versatile decorative threads on the market. This rayon is a highly twisted, thicker, threadlike cord. It is a versatile decorative thread that will fit many of your creative needs, both on the serger and the sewing machine.”

Which means that multiple strands are going to be needed. Just want to try it out; YLI has a gold that might just work out for the Paradise P-077

This thread (Pearl Crown Rayon by YLI Corp) will not look as nice as the thread i had picked up from Super Yarn Mart years ago, but maybe it will work; the color looks correct.

Also found today, a place on eBay that you can get sport weight and fingering weight (finally found the fingering weight but i was really having a good time looking) chenille yarn. You want to go to www.thechenilleshack.com store on eBay. She is super to deal with.

Swiss Straw Experiment Finished

Here it is, the little table.

I put a circle of clear plastic under the crocheted top  to give the support needed. This makes the wire  not needed; my little experiment did not work. Another thin i noticed is that the synthetic straw had more body before i had to dampen it to make it lie flat.

I then thought that it would be really neat to  have a glass top for the table. The you could see the top row of decorative stitching on the base. So what do you think?

Now i have to wait for some more money to get more spools of straw to work on the other pieces. I also found some Rayon that I want to get and try out.

Swiss Straw Experiment

Well, I finally have the Table-top almost finished and here is the photo and extra notes on working with this stuff. I decided while working on the table-top that it would be a shame to put cardboard or plastic under it because it would loose the lacy look. So i decided to use florists’ covered wire to re-enforce the stability and encourage a flat table top. so….

for rounds 7 & 12 and requires piecing the wire on round 12. I also based the circle on a beginning of 7 sc in 2nd ch from hk. and worked the next 2 rows as 2 sc in each st. and went form there. 11 rows of single crochet made a 6 inch circle.

The border (rnd 12) I changed to: sc in joining, sk 2, open fan shell of [dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 1, dc] in next st, sk sts, sc in next st, rep around sl st join to first sc and fasten off.

The wire has to be pieced and overlapped; this is a little tricky. The straw does no cooperate very well and has to be made to behave quite frequently and add to that the extra wire…well you can see it is not a very long piece that is required. And trimming the length of the wires after you are done is best.

It is easy when finished to fold down the edging and have it old it’s shape though. That is a plus and if you have to block it a little to hold have the table top perfectly flat then spray with a fine spray, not too much, on both sides. This stuff get really weird when wet and you don’t want to lay anything on it to the natural texture of the stitches will disappear. Do not pull on it to much either; pull gently on opposite sides rotating the circle till the circle is perfectly shaped and let dry on flat surface.

I Can’t Believe I did that….

Lost my crochet hook for the pineapple afghan that I am working on. I probably had “minions” (as Liz would call them – referring to my little furry friends) helping me big time. But then i had a package come today from an order that i placed a few days earlier for some synthetic raffia. And so i am busy making up the Annie’s Attic ‘Wicker Wonderland’ pattern with that.



That’s the table pedestal inner support that is laying on it’s side. I figure that i will get a package of aquarium rocks to weight the base with although I did alright without anything to weight the table that i made in yarn. This would be good for little children if you glue the table top to the base and use a glue that is better than Elmers. I am using a size ‘E ‘ aluminum hook instead of D and find that that works out just fine. I would have used a ‘D’ but I haven’t had one since i left Los Angeles.
I bought the Raffia from Paper Mart in California; it was 2.95 a 100 yd. spool.