For those into fashion - you will love this information. It's what goes on under the clothes that make the silhouette. Don't neglect clicking on the link.
Another item of interest this morning is freevintageknitting.com/doll-clothes-patterns. I know this is knitting but for those who knit also you will enjoy this finding.
LADIES' BASQUE, WITH TWO UNDERARM GORES. (DESIRABLE FOR STOUT LADIES.)
(For Illustrations see Page 341.)
No. 6011.—
Other views of this basque may be seen at figures Nos. 356B and 357 B in this DELINEATOR, and at figure No. 8 on the Ladies' Plate for Spring. 1893. The basque is designed with the special needs of ladies of stout figure in view, and may be made with a high neck and a standing-collar, or with a neck high at the back and Pompadour in front, or in a shallow V at the front and back, as illustrated. It is here pictured developed in woollen dress goods and velvet, and is superbly adjusted by double bust darts, two under-arm gores at each side, side-back gores and a curving center seam; and the closing is made at the center of the front with button-holes and buttons. The lower edge of the basque forms a shapely point at the center of the front and back and is fashionably short upon the hips. The basque may have fancy elbow sleeves, or long leg-o'-mutton sleeves, with or without upper sleeves extending to the elbows, as preferred.
The upper sleeves, which will serve for elbow sleeves, when desired, are shaped by inside seams, and are sufficiently full at the top to rise fashionably above the shoulders; they are slashed at the back of the arm; and the lower edge rolls back in fanciful revers that are faced with velvet.
The basque may form part of an attractive toilette for state dinners, receptions, balls and the opera. Wool Bengaline will combine handsomely with shaded velvet in a basque of this kind, and plain velvet will unite beautifully with granite Bengaline, vrille or ondine. Less expensive fabrics are equally well adapted to the mode.
We have pattern No. 6011 in twelve sizes for ladies from thirty-two to forty-eight inches, bust measure. In the combination pictured for a lady of medium size, the basque requires a yard and five-eighths of dress goods forty inches wide, with seven-eighths of a yard of velvet twenty inches wide. Of one material, it needs three yards and five-eighths twenty-two inches wide, or a yard and three-fourths forty-four inches wide, or a yard and a half fifty inches wide. Price of pattern, Is. 3d. or 30 cents.
This is the original write-up on the Ladies Waist. They were very descriptive on their patterns. This gave the reader a full knowledge of the season's new look and for us a real insight into the past. You can click on the picture and up will pop-up the larger view. You may also right click save to your hard drive.
LADIES' WAIST, WITH FULL OUTER BODY OUTLINING A ROUND YOKE.
(For Illustrations see Page 241.)
No. 6054—Other illustrations of this pretty waist may be seen at figures Nos. 358 B and 362 B in this delineator.
The waist is here shown daintily developed in lawn and all-over embroidery. It has a full back and fronts, which are cut away in low, round outline at the top and arranged upon a high-necked lining adjusted by double bust darts under-arm and side-back gores and a curving center seam. The back and fronts are gathered at their upper edges at the center of the back and at each side of the closing, which is made invisibly at the center of the front; and the fulness at the lower edge is drawn toward the center and regulated by two rows of shirring made at belt depth apart. Under - arm gores produce a smooth effect at the sides, and a belt cut from the all - over embroidery finishes the lower edge. The plain fronts and plain backs are exposed in round-yoke outline by the low-necked portions and covered with yoke facings of all-over embroidery, from under which the material may be cut away, with dainty effect. A frill of em-broidered edging droops prettily from the upper edges of the full portions, emphasizing the yoke effect. The full puff sleeves rise in picturesque fashion above the shoulders; they are mounted upon smooth coat-shaped linings and are finished at the wrists
with round cuffs, from the edges of which frills of embroidered edging droop prettily over the hands. The becomingly high standing collar is cut from all-over embroidery and is decorated at the upper edge with a frill of edging. The mode will develop attractively in lawn, batiste, cambric, gingham, cotton crepon, seersucker and all varieties of woollens. Washable laces, Hamburg embroidery or fancy tucking will unite prettily with cotton goods. We have pattern No. 6054 in thirteen sizes for ladies from twenty-eight to forty-six inches, bust measure. In the combination pictured for a lady of medium size, the waist requires two yards and three-fourths of lawn thirty-six inches wide, with seven-eighths of a yard of all - over embroidery twenty-seven inches wide. Of one material, it calls for three yards and seven-eighths twenty-two inches wide, or two yards and three-fourths thirty-six inches wide, or two yards and an-eighth forty-four inches wide. Price of pattern, 1s. or 25 cents.
After doing the sleeve pattern for the Gibson Girl Bodice I thought it would be nice to share with you some pictures of what the real sleeve looked like back in 1893. This is from the Delineator (Butterick) March 1893.
This shows the upper and lower views of the sleeve. This is a beautiful sleeve. The underside shows the 'gusset' or 2nd piece. This particular sleeve was labeled as one for outside garments to be worn over dresses with large sleeves. The article goes on to say:
No. 6076.—
This sleeve is intended for coats and jackets that are to be worn over dresses having the voluminous sleeves forming so prominent a feature of present modes. It is here pictured developed in silk velvet, and is unusually wide above the elbow and comfortably close-fitting below. It is shaped with a wide upper part and an unusually narrow under part. The fulness at the top is collected in gathers to rise with the fashionable arched effect above and spread in balloon fashion. The wrist is plainly completed. When a lining is necessary it will be cut exactly like the outside.
LADIES' SHIRT SLEEYE. (For Illustrations see this Page.)
No. 6045.—This comfortable sleeve is pictured made of shirting. It is of comfortable width and shaped by one seam, which is at the inside of the arm. The sleeve is gathered at the top and bottom and may be finished with a cuff that rolls deeply and flares at the back of the arm, or with a straight cuff that closes at the back of the arm with two button-holes and buttons. When the sleeve is finished with the straight cuff it is deeply slashed at the back of the arm, one edge of the slash being very narrowly hemmed and the other edge finished with an overlap , that is pointed at the top.
A sleeve of this kind is specially adapted to blouses, blouse-waists, shirtwaists and full waists of all varieties. Wash silk, China silk,Surah, Oxford cloth, Madras cloth, percale, linen lawn and, in fact, all sorts of dress goods are adaptable to the mode, and a neat decoration of feather or machine stitching may be chosen for the cuffs.
No. 6008.—This sleeve is in picturesque Empire style, and is represented made of seasonable woollen goods. It has a smooth coat-shaped lining, extending to the wrist and shaped by the usual seams along the inside and outside of the arm. The sleeve extends to the elbow and is gathered at the top, at the lower edge and again a little above to form a double puff, the upper puff being deep and the lower one short. The puffs are secured by tackings to the lining, and the exposed portions of lining are covered with facings of the material. The sleeve may be made up with the two puffs or with the upper puff and a deep frill, or as an elbow sleeve with two puffs, or as a short puff sleeve as shown in the illustration, the pattern providing for the various styles. The sleeve will develop with satisfactory results in a combination of fabrics or in a single material of either silken or woollen texture. Bengaline, velvet, faille or changeable silk will unite beautifully with poplin, camel's-hair, serge, vigogne, vicuna and novelty woollens in a sleeve of this kind, and a combination of plain and plaid woollens will be pretty and becoming.
We have pattern No. 6008 in seven sizes for ladies from nine to fifteen inches, arm measure, measuring the arm about an inch below the bottom of the arm's-eye. To make a pair of sleeves for a lady whose arm measures eleven inches as described, calls for two yards and five-eighths of material twenty-two inches wide, or a yard and seven-eighths thirty inches wide, or a yard and three-eighths forty-four or fifty inches wide. Price of pattern, 5d. or 10 cents.
