Taking time out for chemo

what I am going to tell you will come as a shock, so be prepared.

I have been getting more tired all the time and strange things things were happening to my face. I was getting a lump near my right ear that was re-shaping my face and killing what little hearing I had in my ear. and then I lost sight in my right eye and my jaw was moving down and to the left. at the same time I was developing cancer in my right breast. Went for tests and they found bone cancer as well. Immediately they started work on more extensive tests and found that my bones were weakening and that I had blood cots in my right arm. I was nit able t use my arm at all for a month but am re-gaining use now. (I even crocheted just a tiny bit, but I still can’t right well yet. I can type with 3 of my fingers on my right arm.

They gave me a dose of chemo and I started improving there immediately; my jaw is still moving back up a little at a time but I can only eat soft foods right now.

I am taking chemo well but had to have a PICC Line put in for the intravenous infusions as my veins are not cooperating. I am really gratefulfor this as it means that they don’t have to go searching for a vein before taking bloodtests and in fusions.

I have two darling women doctors and team so I am being well teken care of and improving daily! I thank God for this as of course withoiut God nothing would work right.

Elegant Luncheon Set

Pineapple Luncheon Set No. 7335

This is part 1 of the luncheon set. The pattern call s for size 50 crochet ctton which you can get from Herrschners which carries DMC crochet cotton. Otherwise you could substitute size 30 crochet cotton which will come out larger but still useable. These materials are sufficient for a set consisting of centerpiece, 14" in diameter; 4 place doilies, 12" in diameter; 4 bread and butter plate doilies, 7" in diameter; and 4 glass doilies, 5 1/2" in diameter. This page has the Centerpice only.

MATERIALS:

CLARK'S O.N.T. or J. & P. COATS BEST SIX CORD MERCERIZED CROCHET, size 50:

small ball:
11 balls of White or Ecru or 13 balls of any color.
J. & P. coats—8 balls of White or Ecru or 11 balls of any color
big ball:
clark's O.N.T. or J. & P. coats—5 balls of White or Ecru.

Milward's Steel Crochet Hook No.12

 

CENTERPIECE . . . Starting at center, ch 16, join with sl st. 1st rnd: Ch 3, 32 dc in ring, sl st in 3rd st of ch-3. 2nd rnd: Ch 3, dc in each dc around; join to 3rd st of ch-3. 3rd rnd: Ch 3, dc in same place as sl st, 2 dc in each dc around, sl st in 3rd st of ch-3. 4th rnd: Repeat 2nd rnd. 5th rnd: Ch 3, dc in same place as sl st, * ch 3, skip 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 3, join to 3rd st of ch-3 (22 de-groups). 6th rnd: sl st in next dc and in next sp, ch 3; in same sp make dc, ch 2 and 2 dc; in each ch-3 sp around make 2 dc, ch 2 and 2 dc; join. 7th rnd: Sl st in next dc and in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, in same sp make dc, ch 2 and 2 dc; ch 1, in next ch-2 sp make 2 dc, ch 2 and 2 dc (shell over shell). Repeat from around, ending with ch-1; join. 8th to 12th rnds incl: Repeat 7th rnd, having an extra ch between each shell in each rnd. 13th rnd: Sl st in next dc and in next sp, ch 3; in same sp make dc, ch 5 and 2 dc. * Ch 6, in next ch-2 sp make 2 dc, ch 2 and 2 dc, ch 6; in next ch-2 sp make 2 dc, ch 5 and 2 dc. Repeat from * around; join. 14th rnd: Sl st in next dc and in next sp, ch 4, tr in ch-5 of shell, * ch 5, in next ch-2 make 2 dc, ch 2 and 2 dc; ch 5, tr in ch-5 of next shell. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 5, join. 15th rnd: Ch 5 (to count as tr and ch-1), tr in next tr; (ch 1, tr in next tr) times; * ch 3, shell over next shell, ch 3, tr in next tr; (ch 1, tr in next tr) times. Repeat from * around; join to 4th st of ch-5 first made. 16th rnd: Sl st in 1st ch-1 sp, sc in same sp; * (ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) 11 times, ch 3, shell over next shell, ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 3, sc in 1st ch-3 loop. 17th rnd: (Ch 3, sc in next loop) 10 times, * ch 3, shell over next shell; (ch 3, sc in next loop) 11 times. Repeat from * around, ending as in 16th rnd. 18th rnd: (Ch 3, sc in next loop) 9 times, * ch 3, in ch-2 of next shell make 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2 and 2 dc. (Ch 3, sc in next loop) 10 times. Repeat from * around, ending as before. 19th rnd: (Ch 3, sc in next loop) 8 times, * ch 3, in next ch-2 make a shell, ch 2, shell in next ch-2. (Ch 3, sc in next loop) 9 times. Repeat from * around, ending as before. 20th rnd: (Ch 3, sc in next loop) 7 times, * ch 3, shell over next shell, ch 1, shell in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, shell over next shell; (ch 3, sc in next loop) 8 times. Repeat from * around, ending as before. 21st rnd: (Ch 3, sc in next loop) 6 times; (ch 3, shell over next shell) 3 times; (ch 3, sc in next loop) 7 times. Repeat from * around, ending as before. 22nd rnd: (Ch 3, sc in next loop) 5 times, ch 3, shell over next shell; (ch 4, shell over next shell) twice; (ch 3, sc in next loop) 6 times. Repeat from * around.

23rd rnd: (Ch 3, sc in next loop) 4 times; * ch 3, shell over next shell, ch 5; in next shell make 2 dc, ch 5 and 2 dc; ch 5, shell over next shell; (ch 3, sc in next loop) 5 times. Repeat from * around. 24th rnd: (Ch 3, sc in next loop) 3 times; * ch 3, shell over next shell, ch 3, 14 tr in next shell, ch 3, shell over next shell; (ch 3, sc in next loop) 4 times. Repeat from * around. 25th rnd: (Ch 3, sc in next loop) twice; * ch 3, shell over next shell, ch 3, tr in next tr; (ch 1, tr in next tr) 13 times; ch 3, shell over next shell; (ch 3, sc in next loop) 3 times. Repeat from * around. 26th rnd: Ch 3, sc in next loop, * ch 3, shell over next shell; (ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) 13 times; ch 3, shell over next shell; (ch 3, sc in next loop) twice. Repeat from * around. 27th rnd: * Ch 4, shell over next shell; (ch 3, sc in next loop) 12 times; ch 3, shell over next shell; ch 4, sc in next loop. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 4, sl st in 1st sc. Fasten off. 28th row: Attach thread to ch-2 of next shell of previous rnd, ch 3; make dc, ch 2 and 2 dc in same shell; (ch 3, sc in next loop) 11 times; ch 3, shell over next shell. Ch 3, turn. 29th row: Shell over shell; (ch 3, sc in next loop) 10 times; ch 3, shell over next shell; ch 3, turn. Continue in this manner, having 1 ch-3 loop less on each row until 36th row is completed. 37th row: Shell over shell; (ch 3, sc in next loop) twice; ch 3, shell over shell— 1 loop remaining at point. Ch 3, turn. Make shell over shell, ch 4, sc in next loop, ch 4, 2 dc in next shell, ch 1, sl st back in ch-2 of last shell; ch 1, 2 dc where last 2 dc were made. Fasten off. Attach thread to ch-2 of next shell of 27th rnd and complete the next point in same manner. Continue until all 11 points have been worked; then work as follows: 1st rnd: Attach thread to tip of one point where shells were joined, ch 3, in same place where ch-3 was joined make dc, ch 2 and 2 dc. * (Ch 3, shell in next turning ch, between 2 rows) 5 times; ch 2, dc in ch-2 of shell preceding ch-4 (on 27th rnd), holding back the last loop of this dc and next dc on hook; dc in ch-2 of next shell (where thread was attached, to work point) ; thread over and draw through all loops on hook; (ch 3, shell in turning ch between 2 rows) 5 times; ch 3, shell at tip of next point, where shells were joined. Re­peat from * around. Join last ch-3 to 3rd st of ch-3. 2nd rnd: sl st in next dc and in next sp, ch 8, sc in 5th ch from hook (a p made). Dc in same place as sl st, * ch 3, sc under next ch-3, ch 3; in next shell make dc, p and dc. Repeat from * 4 more times, ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3; in next shell make dc, p and dc. Ch 3, sc under next ch-3. Continue thus around. Fasten off.

the rest of the pattern will follow.

Chariot Wheel Motif

This little motif makes a lovely antimacassar. Based on Irish crochet someone put it together into a square piece. Very clever, I thought. The photo dates the design to somewhere in the late 40’s to early 50’s but i don’t remember what the leaflet said. Usually Coats and Clark copyrighted their patterns.

No. 7035

MATERIALS:

CLARK'S O.N.T. or J. & P. COATS BEST SIX CORD MERCERIZED CROCHET, size 10
Milward's Steel Crochet Hook No. 8

STITCH GUAGE:
Using the materials recommended, each motif measures about 3" from end of spoke to end of opposite spoke, and requires approximately 12l/2 yds. of thread.

RECOMMENDED USES: Chair sets, runners, luncheon sets, centerpieces, tablecloths.

 

MOTIF . . . Starting at center, ch 12, join with si st to form ring.

1st row: Ch 21 (to measure l 3/4")- Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (20 sc). Make 1 sc in ring. Ch 1, turn.

2nd row: Picking up only the back loop of each sc, skip 1st sc, sc in each of next 20 sc. Ch 1, turn. 3rd row: Picking up only the back loop of each sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, * ch 5, sc in each of next 4 sc. Repeat from * across, ending with 4 sc (4 p's made). Make 1 sc in ring. This completes 1st spoke. Do not break off but continue for 2nd spoke.

Second Spoke ... 1st row: Ch 20, drop loop from hook, insert hook in 2nd p from ring and draw dropped loop through. Sc in each st of ch-20 (20 sc). Make 1 sc in ring. Ch 1, turn. Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows of 1st spoke once. Then make 4 more spokes same as 2nd spoke (6 in all), but while making the 3rd p of the 6th spoke, attach to 1st spoke by making ch 2, sl st in end sc of 1st spoke, ch 2, and continue back on 6th spoke as usual. Fasten and break off. This completes motif.

Joining . . . Place motifs in position as in illustration, and pin ends of spokes together. Then sew them together on wrong side with over-cast stitches. Chair set requires 28 motifs (rows of 6 motifs and 5 motifs alternately). Arm piece requires 13 motifs (a row of 5 motifs for center and a row of 4 motifs along each side of center row).

 

I hope you enjoy this pattern.

Pineapple Doily No. 7714

 

Sorry for the cigarettes. They are in the original booklet; I guess it was chic or something. This is a Classic oval Pineapple doily measuring 10 x 14 inches. This is a very easy pineapple pattern to do and from what you learn here you can apply to similar other round doilies to make them oval.

MATERIALS:

J & P. COATS OR CLARK;S O,N.T. BEST SIX CORD MERCERIZED CROCHET, Size 20;

Small Ball: J & P Coats—4 balls of White or Ecru
Big Ball: J & P Coats—2 balls of White, Ecru or Cream
Steel Crochet Hook No. 9

Starting at center, ch 8. Join with sl st to form ring. 1st rnd: Ch 3, 23 dc in ring. sl st in 3rd st of ch-3. 2nd rnd: Ch3, dc in same place as sl st, * ch 2, skip 1 dc, 2 dc in next dc. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 2, sl st in 3rd st of ch-3. 3rd rnd: Sl st in next dc and in sp, ch 3, in same sp make dc, ch 2, 2 dc(starting shell made); in each sp around make 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc (shell made)—12 shells in rnd. 4th rnd:  Sl st in next dc and in sp, ch 3, and complete a shell as before (shell over shell make), * ch 2, shell in ps of next shell (another shell  over shell made). Repeat from * around. Join last ch-2 with sl st  to top st of staring chain. 5th rnd: * Shell over shell, ch 4, in sp over next shell make 2 dc, ch 5 and 2 dc; ch 4. Repeat from * around. Join.

6th rnd:  * Shell over shell, ch 3, 13 tr in ch-5 sp, (this is the base of pineapple), ch 3. Repeat from * around. Join. 7th rnd: * Shell over shell, ch 3, tr in each of next 13 tr, making ch 1 between between trs, ch 3. Repeat from * around. Join. 8th rnd:  * Shell over shell, (ch 3, sc in next ch 1 sp) 12 times; ch-3. Repeat from * once more. In sp of next shell make (2 dc, ch 2) twice and 2 dc; ** (ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) 12 times; ch 3, shell over shell. Repeat from ** 2 more times; ch 2, 2 dc in same sp as last shell was made, (ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) 12 times; ch 3.  Join.

9th rnd: * Shell over shell, ch 3, skip the next ch 3 below, sc in next loop, (ch 3, sc in next loop) 10 times; ch 3. Repeat from * once more; shell in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, skip next ch 3, sc in next loop and work over corresponding parts as before. Join. 10th rnd:  * Shell over shell, ch 3, skip next ch-3, sc in next loop, make nine ch-3 loops across pineapple, ch 3. Repeat from *  once more. Shell over shell, ch 2, shell in ch-2 sp between shells, ch 2, shell over shell, ch 3, skip next ch 3, sc in next loop and work over corresponding parts as before. 11th rnd: * Shell over shell, ch 3, skip next ch 3, sc in next loop, make eight ch-3 loops across pineapple, ch3. Repeat from * once more. Shell over shell, (ch 3, shell over shell) twice; ch 3, skip next ch3, sc in next loop and work over corresponding parts as before. 12th rnd: Shell over shell, ch 3, skip next ch 3, sc in next loop, make seven ch-3 loops across pineapple, ch 3, in sp of next shell make (2 dc, ch 2) twice and 2 dc; ch 3, make 7 loops across next pineapple, ch 3, shell over shell, ch 4, in sp of next shell make 2 dc, ch 5 and 2 dc; ch 4, shell over shell, ch 3, skip next ch 3, sc in next loops and work over corresponding parts as before, ending with 2 dc where first shell was made, ch 2, sl st i top st of starting chain.

Now work Pineapples individually as follows: 1st row: Sl st in next dc and in sp, ch 3, and complete shell in same spa sl st sl st, ch 3, skip next ch 3, make 6 loops across pineapple, ch 3, shell in next ch-2 sp. Ch 4, turn. 2nd row: Shell over shell, ch 3, shell over shell. Ch 4 turn. Repeat the 2nd row, making 1 loop less on each row until 1 loop remains. Ch 4, turn. Next row: Shell over shell, ch 4, sc in loop, ch 4, 2 dc in next shell, ch 1, sl st in sp of last complete shell, ch 1, 2 dc in same place as last 2 dc were made, ch 4, turn, sc in joining of shells. Break off.
Attach thread to next ch-2 sp on 12th rnd following pineapple just completed and work as follows: 1st row: Shell in same sp as thread was attached, ch 3, skip the next ch 3, make 6 loops across pineapple, ch 3, shell over shell, ch 3, 13 tr in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, shell over shell, ch 3, shell in next ch-2 sp. Ch 4, turn. 2nd row: Shell over shell, ch 3, make 5 loops across pineapple, ch 3, shell over shell, ch 3, make 5 loops across pineapple, ch 3, shell over shell. Ch 4, turn. 3rd row: Shell over shell, ch 3, make 4 loops across pineapple, ch 3, shell over shell, (ch 3, sc in next ch-1 sp) 12 times; ch 3, shell over shell, ch 3,, make 4 loops across pineapple, ch 3, shell over shell. Ch 4, turn. 4th row: Shell over shell, ch 3, make 3 loops across pineapple, ch 3, in sp of next shell make (2 dc, ch 2) twice and 2 dc; ch 3, skip next ch 3, sc in loop, make 10 loops across pineapple, ch 3, in sp of next shell make (2 dc, ch 2) twice and 2 dc; ch 3, make 3 loops across pineapple, ch 3, shell over shell. Ch 4, turn. 5th row: Shell over shell, ch 3, make 2 loops across pineapple, ch 3, shell over next ch-2 sp. Ch 4, turn and complete this pineapple as before. Complete corresponding incomplete pineapple and the pineapple between these two in same way.

Complete other half of doily

EDGING . . .Work 2 rnds all around outer edges as follows: 1st rnd: Attach thread to a ch-4 loop at tip of any pineapple, ch 3, and in same loop complete a shell, * ch 3, shell in next ch-4 loop. Repeat from * around, ending with dc in top st of starting chain. 2nd rnd: Sl st under the dc just made, sc in same sp, * ch 3, in sp of next shell make dc, picot and dc—to make a picot; ch 3, and sc in 3rd ch from hook. ch 3, sc in next sp between shells. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 3, sl st in first sc made. Break off. Starch lightly and press.

Rose Corner Motif in Filet Crochet

When completed, tray mat measures about 12 x 18 inches. Make a narrow hem all around edges and work s c closely around, making a ch-3 p after every inch.

Materials:

• Clark's O.N.T. or J. & P. Coats Mercerized Crochet,
• size 50, 1 ball. White or Ecru.
• Milward's steel crochet hook No. 10
  A piece of linen 11 x 17 inches.

Rose Corners (4): Starting at one end, ch 46, turn. 1st row: D c in 7th ch from hook, * ch 2, skip 2 ch, d c in next ch. Repeat from * until 14 sps are made. Ch 5, turn. 2nd row: * Skip ch-2, d c in next d c, ch 2. Repeat from * across. Ch 5, turn. 3rd row: Make 10 sps, then 2 bls, 1 sp, 1 bl. Ch 12, turn. 4th row: D c in 4th ch from hook, d c in each of next 8 sts, d c in next d c, ch 2, skip 2 d c, d c in next d c, 4 bls, 9 sps. Ch 5, turn. 5th row: Sp over sp and bl over bl of previous row. Ch 5, turn. 6th row: D c in 4th ch from hook, d c in next ch, d c in next d c, 3 bls, 1 sp, 4 bls, 3 sps, 1 bl, 5 sps. Ch 5, turn. 7th row: 6 sps, 2 bls, 7 sps, 3 bls. Ch 3 turn. Hereafter work in this manner, following diagram, Place corners in place as in illustration. Cut away linen under corners and finish with a narrow hem on wrong side.

Please Note…

Those of you that knew of my website, Just Another Crochet Site, i have closed it because the place I was hosting from was no longer supportive of me.  Somehow the date that the domain was due was upped to an earlier date than was when I first signed up for the site. When i wrote a ticket to make mention of this she never answered me. Due to the finances (my personal) with my daughter having had a heart attack a year earlier and not having a job for all the time since then I have been trying to help her out financially. So I am posting this explanation for those who will be looking for the links or the site.

So when i have something i will post it here. For time being I haven't any thing going in crochet but it saddens me that i no longer have my site.

Happy New Year everyone.

Sorry that there is nothing to post; I have not much going on here at this time.Of you would like to see what i am doing in the interrum then check it out here: papercraftsotherartwork.blogspot.com/

Christmas Time Again!

That time of the year everyone looks forward to.

In all the festivities, don’t forget to remember and give thanks to the one whose purpose in coming was to save us for himself. God Bless you….

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone!

Want to wish you all a lovely Thanksgiving!

Holy Alpahbet

A lthough things are not perfect
B ecause of trial or pain
C ontinue in thanksgiving
D o not begin to blame
E ven when the times are hard
F ierce winds are bound to blow
G od is forever able
H old on to what you know
I magine life without His love
J oy would cease to be
K eep thanking Him for all the things
L ove imparts to thee
M ove out of "Camp Complaining"
N o weapon that is known
O n earth can yield the power
P raise can do alone
Q uit looking at the future
R edeem the time at hand
S tart every day with worship
T o thank God is a command
U ntil we see Him coming
V ictorious in the sky
W e'll run the race with gratitude
X alting God most high
Y es, there'll be good times and yes some will be ba! ! ! ! ! ! d, but...
Z ion waits in glory...where none are ever sad!

The trials of this time and all other times for mankind, will be made an end to. And we will have a thousand years with Jesus as our King and our brother on a new earth.

Small pieces of torn tissue…

are glued to a plastic bag sphere to make a rough pumpkin shape.
And since Halloween is just a few days away I thought this would be a great little project. Maybe you too. The link for the instructions starts here: http://miniatures.about.com/od/halloweenminiatures/ss/paperpumpkn.htm

 

So get started; you don’t have much time before the evening. arrives.

Autumn Pumkins

I found this really cute picture of some patchwork pumpkins in a Google search and had to follow the link.

To find the pattern, floolw this link http://rachaelrabbit.blogspot.com/2008/10/tutorial-simple-patchwork-pumpkins-and.html

have fun!

Hoop Skirts

What i have here is a hoop skirt complete with ‘hoops’. You can't see them as they are embedded in sc rows. The hoops are made of 40 lb. test fishing line or leader line for fishing line. This is very flexible and will collapse when Barbie sits.
This will work for those styles that are done in the 1840’s-60’s and Southern Belles of Annie’s Attic and Paradise patterns. This has not been tested under each and every skirt but at leat you have something to go on. I think you will like this pattern very much. You will not have to count each row and increase after the initial rows. And the placement of the fishing line is nice and clear. All you have to do is watch for the inc made on the previous tr row. Some people already know this but I put it here for those who don’t.

Materials

• Size 10 crochet thread
• #7 hook
• 40 lb (.60mm or .024 inch thickness) fishing line

Stitch Notes:

Make your inc in the first of the 2 sts of prev rows; this will make them less obvious. If you make you increases on the second of the 2 sts it make an obvious angle showing where you made the increase.

• 1^st piece 12 inches and goes on row 3
• 2^nd piece 16 inches and goes on after 6^th tr row
• 3^rd piece 18 inches goes on after 8^th tr row.
• 4^th & 5^th piece cut 24 ½ inches long goes on after 11^th & 18^th tr row

I found that those little wooden clothes pins came in very handy for holding the fishing line to the row as I crocheted otherwise it curl around and gets in the way. Also cut your fishing line about 2 inches longer; it can be trimmed off later but you may need it for adjusting the row and this may be better done when finished with the whole petticoat.
You want to leave about an inch or more extending past the beg of the row which you will crochet over at the end of the row and overlap the beg and end of the fishing line. Work sc stitch over these rows; they are not in the row count.

Instructions

working over a 20 inch length of thread attach thread with sl st and ch 4, work 47 tr, ch 4, turn. (48 tr)
Row 2: 2 tr in next st, tr in next st, rep from * across join with sl st to top of beg ch. (24 inc; 72 tr)
1st piece of fishing line goes here; holding the fishing line to the back side of work just do a row of sc over the fishing line after row 2.
Row 3: Ch 4, tr in next tr, * 2 tr in next tr, tr in next 2 tr, rep from * around, join. (24 inc; 96 tr)
Rnd 4: Tr in each tr around with an inc every 12^th st {8 incs; 108 sts}
Rnd 5 -12: Tr in each st with 8 inc sts every tr row. 2^nd length of fishing line goes between rows 5 & 6; 8 & 9, 12 & 13 and after the last row.
From 13^th – 18^th row work even = 7 ¼ inches long
Make 1 more row of sc with fishing line and fasten off. I row of a ruffle could be added for some styles (like the Paradise patterns).

Technique - Joining

One of the neatest tricks in crochet is joining. When done right it is nice and neat; when done wrong it gets a little lumpy. It is very easy to do and those patterns that say to join with a sc may be better off if you use this little trick instead.

1. drop loop from your hook…
2. insert hook in the intended st or sp from right to left…
3. pick up loop just dropped and…
4. pull through and make a sl st…
5. finish the chain loop.

The piece in the photo is for the lace overskirt to Miss July 1998. I am doing it in size 20 thread and a #8 crochet hook.

Miniature Heart-shaped Pillow

This little pillow is done in Herrschner’s afghan yarn. It is just a little over 2 inches.

Materials

• Herrschner's afghan yarn
• Size E hook

Notes

1. Do not join rnds and follow carefully rnd 3 as this pillow's shape can be ruined if you don't follow exactly.

1. I am using htr st as a smooth transitional between tr sts and dc sts. A htr is [yo twice, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 3 loops. Voila!

1. When you make you 6 sc in the 2nd ch st make sure you have inserted the hook under two strands of the three. Otherwise you will have a hole that is too large.

1. You can make this pillow in thicker yarn but use a crochet hook at about 2 sizes smaller

Instructions

Ch 2
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook,
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc {12 sc}
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, dc in next sc, [htr, 2 tr] in next sc, [1 tr, 1 htr] in next sc, 2 dc in next sc, [dc, 1 htr] in next sc, [htr, tr, htr] in next sc (this forms the bottom point), [htr, dc] in next sc, 2 dc in next sc, [ dc, htr] in next sc, [2 tr, 1 htr] in next sc, dc in next sc, sl st join to first sc.
Make another one and with same or contrasting color make the edging joining the two sides. Stuff with a small cotton ball before all the way closed and make sc in back lps, ch 2 and repeat half way around with a sl st (no ch 2 before or after) in the sc at top of pillow.

The Ballerina Finished

Finished!

The tulle skirt is finished, hand sewn to the under side of the crocheted skirt. The pattern has been re-vised to include the tulle underskirt and if you have already downloaded this pattern you may want to do so again. Ballet Tutu
The Tulle is not as nice as I wanted but I was using what I had on hand. This had bee purchased from Walmart long time ago; it is rather stiff. However it worked. If using softer tulle you may want to use more layers. I used one piece, folded in half lengthwise which made 2 layers.

Maybe someday i will take it off and replace it with really nice Tulle. The links section have a couple of places where you can purchase tulle, please check them out.

The Ballerina's dance...

When i started the bodice (shown in prev post) i really hadn't thought about what to put with it. But then when the neckline was properly styled immediately I saw a Ballerina's outfit in the making. So, i put on the skirt. This made it right for photo taking and no one could see that her underwear wasn't there yet and also re-confirmed that this would be perfect for a ballerina's dance outfit. I did the panties yesterday and put the final 2 rows for the skirt and have yet to do the tulle under skirt. Since I have it this far I thought you guys should see it, though i don't know how long it is going to be before the tulle underskirt gets done.

The pattern, thus far, is here: B1_Tutu1.pdf

While Working on…

the Millinea Mint project, I pulled out the pattern i had that has that really beautiful bodice and the really very incorrect pattern for same bodice and decided to give it another try. I will not say how many times i have tried to get this pattern correct but I did manage to do it this time!!!! I did it Saturday and today I am going back over it to make the corrections that always seem to need to be done so that you can have a copy of the pattern for the bodice if you are interested.

This is the bodice before the last row that goes on around the neckline. While working on this i decided that it was just too good not to pass it up, to make this into a ballerina outfit. It will have layers of gathered tulle for the under skirt and panties.From there gold thread can be used to make trim around the edges, feathers or other trim can be added and any ballerina outfit will appear from the crocheter’s imagination.

I neglected one thing when i posted "the Next Installment of Millinea Mint"; that link to the pattern. So, here it is...
MillineaMint.pdf
Sorry about that. I didn't mean to forget the link.

I have some really good links for doing makeovers in case anyone is interested.

The first one is for restoring Barbie’s hair.

http://www.rebeccachulew.com/ezine/hairrescue.html

i that doesn’t work then you might want to try re-rooting….

http://www.wideeyedgirls.com/rerootinstruction.html

In either case you may need some styling help….

http://members.fortunecity.com/customdolls/hair1_page.htm

But then, if all goes wrong there is always this one

http://www.rebeccachulew.com/ezine/moldedhair.html

and then there are some other tips that may come in handy…

http://www.geocities.com/RodeoDrive/Mall/3309/customizingtips.htm

In any event these pages have been up for a long time and who knows how much longer they will still be up. So, if you are interested, now would be the time to collect this information and store it on your computer.